With 5 teams descending while on our way up, we certainly did not feel too giggly. One team got their ropes blown away!, other had their tent torn and broken and the others just could not stand the "outrageously strong winds" as the experienced German climber put it. The other two teams made it further before the weather deteriorated - actually touching the wall, but got shut off after a couple of pitches with all cracks being iced up and frenzy cold. Having only limited time available we carried on, with the lightest available single skin water resistant (not water proof!) tent and a bivy bag. With "how bad can it be?" mantra and lust for climbing, we continued the steep approach battling the ever more hostile elements the higher we climbed.
